Whether choosing an elegant necklace or a feminine bracelet, understanding the types of chain links is essential. In jewelry, the term "link" refers to the pattern formed by the assembly of a chain’s links. There are many types of chain links, each with a distinct shape, specific manufacturing method, and unique characteristics. Properly identifying these different types of chains allows you to select the ideal piece in terms of style, durability, and purpose. A well-chosen link ensures not only a successful aesthetic but also sufficient strength to support pendants or withstand daily wear.
In this ultra-comprehensive article, we review the main types of chain links for necklaces and bracelets. For each link, we describe its characteristic shape, manufacturing process, common uses (necklace, bracelet, pendant), and technical features. From timeless classics to original designs, discover an exhaustive guide that will help you recognize and choose the perfect chain without confusion.
Curb Chain
The curb chain is a true classic, widely used in jewelry. It is characterized by oval links that are twisted and flattened (often with a diamond-cut faceting) so that each link lies flat. All links are aligned in the same plane, giving the curb chain a flat and flexible appearance. This type of chain is actually a variation of the traditional forçat chain, but with uniformly flattened rings.
Versatile and timeless, the curb chain comes in a wide variety of thicknesses and lengths. Thin models are ideal for discreet necklaces or to suspend a pendant, while thicker curb chains are often used for robust bracelets or necklaces. Historically considered a masculine chain (found, for example, on identity bracelets and heavy gold chains for men), it is now worn by all due to its timeless style. A high-quality curb chain is valued for its durability: its solid links resist daily wear well and can support relatively heavy pendants without deforming. Note that there are variants, such as the double curb chain (with parallel double links for charm bracelets), and the Cuban link, discussed later, which is a thicker, denser version of the curb chain.
Figaro Chain
Also known as the alternating curb chain, the Figaro chain is recognizable by its regular pattern formed by alternating links of different sizes. Typically, a Figaro chain consists of a sequence of three short links followed by one longer link, with the pattern repeating. This alternation gives the chain a distinctive visual rhythm and a refined style. The Figaro chain is somewhat a creative variation of the curb chain: it features flattened, interlocked rings arranged in this unique 3+1 pattern.
Very popular, the Figaro chain is frequently worn as a necklace by men for its classic yet bold appearance. However, in finer versions, it is perfectly suitable for women seeking an original yet understated piece. Thanks to its elongated links, the Figaro chain generally offers good durability and can be worn alone as a choker or paired with a lightweight pendant. This chain remains a staple, especially in silver or gold, and is among the most recognized link styles worldwide.
Jaseron Chain (Belcher or Rolo)
The Jaseron chain – sometimes called the Belcher chain – consists of a series of perfectly uniform round or oval links. Each ring is typically round on the outside and flattened on the inside, giving it a slightly thick profile while remaining flat against the body. When the links are completely round (both inside and out), it is referred to as the Rolo chain, considered a variant of the Jaseron. Technically, the Jaseron chain can be seen as an evolution of the forçat chain: it is a round-link version of the classic forçat chain.
Visually simple and refined, the Jaseron chain offers a sober and elegant appearance. Its relatively thick links for its size make it a sturdy chain despite its finesse. It is well-suited for holding small to medium-sized pendants and is often found in delicate bracelets or children’s necklaces (its delicacy does not compromise its robustness). In France, it is called Jaseron, but in English-speaking countries, it is known as the Belcher chain or Rolo chain. In any case, this timeless link remains a safe choice for those seeking a discreet yet durable chain.
Forçat Chain
The forçat chain is considered the quintessential classic link in jewelry. It is typically the structure that comes to mind when imagining a simple chain. The forçat chain consists of uniform, oval-shaped (sometimes almost round) links connected in a regular alternating pattern. Each link has only one joint, and the rings may have rounded or slightly squared internal angles depending on the model. Its name has historical origins: it draws inspiration from the chains once used to bind convicts (forçats), hence its sober and robust appearance inherited from those transport chains.
The forçat chain is versatile and timeless. It is available in all sizes, from very fine versions ideal for delicate pendants to thick versions worn alone as necklaces. This link offers an excellent balance of flexibility and strength, which explains why it is used with most jewelry pendants. A fine forçat chain in gold or silver is often the default choice to highlight a pendant due to its discretion and reliability. On the other hand, wider forçat links (sometimes called cheval links when more oval) are popular for men’s bracelets or larger necklaces. In short, choosing a forçat chain means opting for a safe bet, a type of chain that is both simple and durable, transcending trends without ever going out of style.
Venetian Chain (Box or Cubic Chain)
The Venetian chain, also known as the box chain or cubic chain, is recognizable by its square-shaped links interlocked with one another. Essentially, this chain is made up of a series of small hollow or solid cubes connected to form a perfectly straight line. Up close, the Venetian chain has a clean, geometric look: each side of the square links contributes to the chain’s elegant and modern appearance. When worn, it offers a smooth, regular surface that catches the light beautifully on its edges.
The Venetian chain is highly appreciated for its sober and refined style. Often crafted in gold (yellow, white, or rose) or silver, it is commonly found in fine versions, ideal for pairing with lightweight pendants. Even when thin, it remains fairly robust due to the interlocked structure of its links. However, it should not be twisted abruptly, as its angular articulation makes it slightly more rigid than a forçat chain, for example—it could deform if bent too much. In normal use, a well-designed Venetian chain stays perfectly in place around the neck and adds a touch of unadorned elegance. Whether worn as a choker or with a lower pendant, this cubic link captivates with its modern and regular appearance, adaptable to many jewelry styles.
Bead Chain (Ball Chain)
The bead chain consists, as its name suggests, of a series of small metal beads linked together. Each bead (ball) is connected to the next by a tiny link or a short rod inserted into a hole in the bead, forming a fluid chain of spheres. Depending on the model, the beads may be solid or hollow to reduce the chain’s weight. This type of link offers a smooth, rounded feel, very different from open-link chains: visually, it resembles a string of aligned metal pearls.
The textured and original appearance of the bead chain has made it a popular choice for various uses. In very fine versions (beads of 1 to 2 mm), it can support a pendant: the small beads generally pass through the pendant’s bail without issue. Thicker bead necklaces, on the other hand, are often worn alone for a modern look. This design was famously used in American military dog tags, where a long bead chain serves as a necklace—sometimes referred to as a G.I. bead chain in this context. Bead chains offer good overall flexibility, though they are slightly less supple than a forçat chain due to the segments between beads limiting bending angles. Feminine and playful, the bead chain adds variety with its spherical shape while remaining discreet in smaller sizes.
Cuban Link Chain
The Cuban link chain (or Cuban link in English) is a thick variant of the curb chain, recognizable by its wide, tightly interlocked links. From a distance, it may resemble a rope due to the links appearing to form a compact spiral pattern. In reality, the Cuban link chain is made of flattened oval links, similar to those of a curb chain, but interlocked extremely densely and aligned with perfect precision. This density gives it a massive, imposing appearance and great durability. Traditionally, Cuban link chains are handmade, with each link soldered and polished, ensuring exceptional strength.
Popularized by hip-hop and Latino culture, the Cuban link chain gets its name from the Cuban community in Miami, which made it famous starting in the 1970s. It is often worn as a short, very thick necklace in yellow or white gold, as a statement of wealth and urban style. With link widths reaching 1 to 2 cm in the most extravagant men’s models, this chain stands alone—no pendant needed. For women, finer Cuban link chains are found in bracelets or choker necklaces, offering the characteristic woven look while remaining elegant. In all cases, thanks to its reinforced, tightly packed links, the Cuban link chain blends tradition and modernity, offering a highly durable chain that inevitably draws attention.
Wheat Chain (Spiga or Wheat)
Three names for one exceptional design: wheat chain, Spiga chain, or wheat stalk chain. This sophisticated link features a unique weave reminiscent of wheat stalks or palm leaves. Technically, the wheat chain is created by interlacing small shuttle-shaped links (elongated ovals pointed at the ends). Each link connects not to the next one directly but to the one after, creating a tightly interwoven pattern: each new link passes through the previous one and connects to the one before that. This complex weave gives the impression that the chain is made of metal threads braided in a chevron pattern, hence the “wheat chain” appearance.
The artisanal crafting of the wheat chain requires high-quality metal and advanced expertise, as any looseness in the interlocking could weaken the structure. The result is a chain that is generally more expensive than others, but its beauty and durability justify the cost. In terms of characteristics, the wheat chain is both flexible and strong, making it comfortable to wear as a necklace or bracelet. Its multiple links reflect light beautifully, creating a rich, textured effect. Spiga chains can be round or flat depending on the weaving style and come in various thicknesses. Even in fine versions, it looks stunning alone around the neck, as its pattern is self-sufficient. The wheat chain is thus highly valued by connoisseurs seeking an original, durable, and luxurious chain.
Rope Chain
The rope chain mimics the appearance of a braided rope, as if two metal strands were spiraled together. In reality, this chain is made of many small rings connected in series and coiled into a helix. The result is a continuous twisted pattern with no apparent beginning or end, strongly resembling a rope (hence its name). Up close, the outline of each link is visible, but they are positioned to create the illusion of a finely twisted cable.
Aesthetically, the rope chain offers an elegant and classic relief. Very trendy in the 1980s for heavy gold chains, it remains popular today in finer necklace or bracelet models, sometimes paired with a pendant. However, many rope chains are made hollow inside (to avoid excessive weight), which can make them less durable in the long term. Indeed, a hollow rope chain does not withstand excessive pulling or twisting and is difficult to repair if broken. Over time, this type of chain may also show signs of flattening if heavily stressed, especially in larger gauges. Nevertheless, with normal use and care to avoid abrupt bending, a rope chain offers good longevity. It pairs particularly well with round or oval pendants due to its twisted style but can also be worn alone to highlight its beautiful twisted pattern. Less common than the curb or forçat chains, the rope chain remains a charming choice for those seeking a chain with a distinctive braided design.
Anchor Chain (Marine Chain)
The anchor chain – or marine chain – is directly inspired by the chains used to moor ship anchors. Its iconic design consists of flat oval links with a crucial feature: a transverse bar in the center of each link. Thus, each ring of the chain is divided into two openings by this small central bar. This reinforcement adds extra strength by preventing the links from deforming too much relative to one another. Visually, it creates a unique style immediately associated with the nautical world and the famous marine anchor chain.
The anchor chain is highly valued for its durability and nautical look. It is often found in classic curb bracelets, particularly models for children or men, where an identity plate is mounted on a gold or silver anchor chain. This choice is deliberate: the central bars make the chain particularly strong, capable of withstanding pulling without breaking. As a necklace, an anchor chain draws attention with its original and balanced design. It is generally worn alone to showcase its pattern (a pendant could obscure the alternation of bars and ovals). Note that this type of chain is sometimes called a Gucci chain in commerce, referring to an anchor bracelet model popularized by the brand. Regardless, choosing an anchor chain means selecting a chain that is both aesthetic and nearly indestructible—after all, if it can anchor ships, it can be trusted to hold our jewelry!
Coffee Bean Chain
The coffee bean chain is aptly named: each of its links resembles a small, oval coffee bean. More precisely, this chain consists of flattened oval links with a slit or central hole, giving them the shape of a seed. Each “bean” is connected to the next by small intermediate rings at the ends. Once assembled, the chain displays a regular pattern of spaced oval links, visually evoking a row of aligned coffee beans.
Often quite voluminous and expressive, the coffee bean chain has been popularized by men’s jewelry and urban fashion (seen, for example, adopted by some rappers in large gold chains). Due to its wide links, a standard-length coffee bean chain tends to be heavier than a fine forçat or curb chain. To reduce weight and the cost of precious metal, coffee bean links are typically pierced on both sides or even hollow, lightening the chain without altering its appearance. The result is an imposing yet comfortable and less costly piece than it appears. The coffee bean chain is found in both necklaces and bracelets. Worn alone, it creates a highly appreciated vintage or retro style, especially in its bicolor yellow gold/white gold version, which enhances the bean effect. If the links are solid (unpierced), the chain can become quite heavy to wear, which is why jewelers often prefer to design it openwork. In summary, the coffee bean chain is a bold choice, ideal for those seeking an original, durable, and historically rich piece.
Popcorn Chain
Original and modern, the popcorn chain stands out with its textured relief composed of numerous small, rounded links. Unlike the bead chain, where each element is a distinct sphere, the popcorn chain is formed of links shaped like hollow hemispherical cups, connected edge-to-edge to create a flexible tube. Imagine tiny half-spheres joined at their edges: this creates the appearance of a succession of popped corn kernels (hence the name popcorn). The resulting design is tubular, with a finely textured surface from all these small curves.
The main advantage of the popcorn chain is that it offers a visually voluminous yet very lightweight chain. The cup-shaped links are hollow, allowing for a relatively thick chain without the corresponding weight. Additionally, the tubular structure allows the chain to roll easily on itself, giving it a certain fluidity when worn. However, this link is not very stretchable laterally and does not tolerate pronounced twisting. Attempting to bend or twist it risks crushing or damaging the delicate hollow links. It is therefore advisable to handle it carefully to avoid deformation. In terms of use, the popcorn chain is generally worn alone as a choker or long necklace, as its distinctive pattern is enough to adorn the neck. It is less often seen with a pendant due to its relative rigidity and already bold style. In summary, the popcorn chain is an excellent choice for those seeking an unconventional chain, combining lightness and material effect. Simply handle it gently to preserve its beautiful honeycomb structure over time.
Snake Chain
The snake chain, also called the serpent chain, is a smooth and fluid chain whose appearance evokes the skin or movements of a snake. There are actually two forms of snake chains often confused. The first is the classic snake chain, made of tightly packed links forming a nearly continuous, flexible tube-like surface. Each small link has a slight central ridge and interlocks with the next, creating a chevron pattern reminiscent of snake scales along the chain’s length. From a distance, individual links are barely distinguishable, making the chain appear as a smooth, shiny cord. This type of snake chain is highly valued for its sleek, modern design and is one of the most popular chains for fine necklaces.
The second form is the S-shaped snake chain (sometimes simply called the serpentine chain). Here, the links are not connected end-to-end but interlocked laterally: each link is shaped like an elongated “S”, intertwining with the next in a parallel, sinuous pattern. This variant has a slightly more textured appearance while remaining very flexible. There is even a twisted version of the S-shaped snake chain, known as the nugget chain or garland chain, where the “S” links are twisted for a helical effect.
In both cases, the snake chain lives up to its name: these chains are smooth to the touch, flexible, and shiny, perfectly contouring the neck. They are often chosen for pendants, as their round or slightly square profile pairs well with a medallion without drawing attention away. A fine snake chain in white gold or silver, for example, will elegantly highlight a solitaire or small pendant. However, these tightly packed links are relatively fragile against sharp bends or forced twisting. They tend to deform or even break if caught violently or worn repeatedly while sleeping. It is therefore recommended to handle them carefully and store them properly to avoid knots. Well-maintained, a snake chain adds a touch of finesse and modernity to your jewelry while remaining sufficiently durable for regular wear (avoiding risky situations).
In conclusion, each type of chain link has its own unique identity and specific advantages. From timeless classics like the forçat or curb chains to original designs such as the wheat or popcorn chains, and specialized links like the bead or snake chains, there is a chain suited to every use and preference. Understanding these differences will enable you to make an informed choice when purchasing your next necklace or bracelet, prioritizing the link that best matches your aesthetic and practical criteria. A piece of jewelry with a well-chosen chain link will stand the test of time, retaining its brilliance and durability. Whether you aim to enhance a pendant or wear a chain alone as a fashion accessory, this guide helps you identify the ideal link for a result that is elegant, durable, and perfectly suited to your desires.
